DIY Copper Shower Curtain Rod
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Raise your hand if you’re obsessed with copper metal finishes! *Raises hand* I’m currently on the tail-end of our upstairs bathroom renovation, where I snuck copper accents in wherever I could. I have always loved copper, and have loved working it into our home over the last few years. For the bathroom, I found the perfect copper sink faucet, and copper vanity hardware to match. When it came time to choose a shower curtain rod, I knew it had to pull together the copper accents! After some brain storming, I came up with an easy DIY solution.
I was inspired by industrial pipe shelving brackets to create a copper version of a ceiling-mounted shower curtain rod. Not only does it provide a unique and modern look, but it also offers stability.
In this step-by-step guide, I will walk you through the process of creating your very own copper pipe shower curtain rod!
Here’s What You’ll Need:
- 3/4″ copper pipe (length depends on the size of your shower, but I bought two 5ft. pieces)
- Two 3/4″ copper elbow fittings
- Two 3/4″ galvanized floor flanges
- Two 3/4″ copper nipple fittings
- Measuring tape
- Pipe cutter (or hacksaw, but I recommend the pipe cutter)
- E6000 Glue
- Copper Spray Paint or Copper Rub n Buff
- 8 screws
- Cordless Drill
Step 1: Measure and Plan. Start by measuring the length and width of your shower area to determine the appropriate size for your curtain rod. Remember to account for the space required for the floor flanges. The floor flanges set off 1 inch on each side, as does the two elbow fittings. So, take the length of your bathtub, subtract 2 inches for the floor flanges, subtract 2 inches for the elbow fittings to get the length of the curtain rod pipe.
Next, you need to figure out how long your two shorter pipe pieces should be. To determine this, take the floor to ceiling height, subtract the length of your shower curtain and the copper fittings, to get the necessary pipe length.
For example, my floor to ceiling height is 90.5 “and my shower curtain is 74”. Additionally, the nipple fitting adds one inch and so does the elbow fitting. So, 90.5-74-2= 14.5″ So, I cut my two short pipes to 14.5″ each.
Once you have the measurements, sketch out a plan for your curtain rod, indicating where the fittings and supports will be placed.
Step 2: Cut the Copper Pipe. Using a pipe cutter or hacksaw, cut the copper pipe to the desired length based on your measurements from Step 1. A pipe cutter is an easy, beginner friendly tool and inexpensive. Ensure that the cuts are clean and straight and you’re done with this step!
Step 3: Paint Floor Flanges Copper. I couldn’t find any copper floor flanges (I don’t know if they even make them to be honest), so I needed to paint the galvanized ones I found to match everything else. My absolute FAVORITE copper spray paint is this Rustoleum Bright Coat Metallic Finish Spray Paint because it almost perfectly matches actual copper. If you don’t want to use spray paint, I also love this copper rubnbuff.
Step 4: Assemble the Curtain Rod. Attach one copper elbow fitting to one end of each shorter pipe, ensuring that they are properly aligned. Then, attach one copper nipple fitting to the other end of each shorter pipe. The nipple fitting will thread into the floor flanges to attach the curtain rod to the ceiling, and the elbow fittings connect the shorter pipes to the long pipe (the rod). After you dry fit each connection, you can take everything apart.
Next, grab your E6000 and apply liberally around one end of the short pipe, and the inside of the nipple fitting. Attach the fitting to the pipe and let dry. Repeat this step with the other short pipe, as well as the elbow fittings. LET E6000 CURE FOR AT LEAST 24 HOURS!! If you can wait, I recommend waiting 48 hours. E6000 can become tacky in around 10 minutes, but it is extremely important you let it cure completely. If you rush this and install it on the ceiling, the weight of the piping can cause this to fall apart.
If you wish to enhance the strength and stability of your curtain rod, you can choose to solder the connections. Please note that soldering requires careful attention to safety. Wear safety goggles and use a soldering torch according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Step 5: Mount the Curtain Rod. After allowing the E6000 to cure, it is time to install the shower curtain rod! First, I recommend holding the curtain rod up in it’s desired place to make sure everything seems correct. Then, use a drill to secure the floor flanges to the ceiling at the desired positions. Each flange has 4 screw holes and you should securely fasten at each position. If you aren’t mounting into a stud, make sure to use drywall anchors. I personally think it was easier to mount it as one piece, but if you prefer, you could also mount the floor flanges first, and then attach the rest of the pieces.
Step 7: Hang the Shower Curtain. Finally, attach your shower curtain rings or hooks to the copper pipe and hang your shower curtain. Step back and admire your newly installed ceiling-mounted copper pipe shower curtain rod! I opted for shower curtain rings and here’s the copper shower curtain rings I found that match perfectly.
In total, this project cost $77.24 (not including cost of the drill, pipe cutter, and measuring tape).
I think this statement piece is worth every (copper) penny! What do you think?